Tag: skin

The Rise of concern Based Skincare


As skincare professionals, we see clients seeking treatments for skin concerns such as Acne, Rosacea, Pigmentation, Dry, Sensitive or Fine Lines/Wrinkles on a daily basis. Research from the British Skin Foundation has found that 60% of British people currently suffer from or have suffered from a skin condition at some point during their lifetime.


When it comes to skincare efficacy, a ‘one size fits all’ approach is no longer enough. Discerning clients armed with more information via the internet, reality programmes and social commentary, want to treat specific skin concerns to benefit from skincare regimes tailored to meet their personal needs


When looking at skin concerns, it appears that overall, both men and women are paying more attention to the ‘what’ and the ‘how to resolve if. A recent study of 92 dermatology clinics found a 200% rise in the number of adults seeking specialist Acne treatment’. Other skin conditions on the

rise include Rosacea and Pigmentation. Rosacea treatment enquiries are up by 92%, double compared to the year before. Hyperpigmentation, caused by the overproduction of Melanin resulting in darker patches on the skin, can not only make skin look uneven but can also give the appearance of aged skin.


What has caused this rise in skin concerns? Note: a few modern day factors that have huge impact


Diets high in sugar, lacking nutrients and full of processed foods can lead to a host of adverse health issues, including heart disease, weight gain and also skin problems. Yet, as a nation, we are consuming more sugar and processed foods than ever before. The World Health Organisation has stated that people should aim to get just 5% of their daily calories from sugary foods. However, the average is 12.3% for adults under 65 according to the national diet and nutrition survey (NONS). Sugar can trigger a spike in blood sugar levels. This increases levels of insulin that can cause skin problems such as acne and rosacea. In fact, an overview of research carried out over the past 50 years has found that eating foods with a high glycaemic index (GI) not only aggravated acne, but in some cases triggered it, too”,


A survey of 4,000 people ‘ found that four out of five adults feel stressed during a typical week, while almost one in ten were stressed all the time. There is now a greater understanding of the link between stress and adverse effects on skin health. For example, stress hormones trigger overproduction of sebum that can create or worsen Acne. Raised levels of stress hormones promote transepidermal water loss resulting in dry and dull skin appearance. While in general. hormonal imbalances can play havoc on the health of skin whether caused by stress or other factors such as PMS, pregnancy, puberty and menopause.


Daily exposure to free radicals, including pollution, UVA/UBA rays can also lead to various skin issues. Air pollution can lead to premature ageing by accelerating wrinkles and age spots, according to emerging scientific research’. Clients reporting sun damage is also very common. Although more than eight out of 10 people are worried about skin cancer, 72% have been sunburnt in the past year”.

UVA rays are particularly dangerous because they don’t cause burning, so there’s no immediate sign that any damage is being done. In fact, the tell-tale pigmentation marks, excessive wrinkles and leathery texture often don’t become apparent until many years later



Personalised and information based skincare is the future. Providing a consultative approach enables client confidence and loyalty through a longer term treatment programme. Therapists should be taking a three pronged approach when treating their clients:

  1. Start with a detailed skin analysis, in order to really understand your client’s skin. Use skin imaging technology and take photos regularly to show progress.
    Discuss and design a personalised treatment programme – the #100DayReset programme is ideal for both new and existing clients. Combine professional treatments with a personalised homecare routine to address the client’s concern.
  2. Treat from within. Skin nourished from the inside looks healthy on the outside. Clients who use appropriate supplements are likely to achieve far superior results.
  3. Use topical treatments that are about efficacy and integrity.
    Topical vitamin treatments that contain vitamin A have shown to make a dramatic difference to skin concerns.

If clients are using the wrong kind of make-up it could undo all the hard work. Encourage the use of non-comedogenic cosmetics to avoid aggravating concerns. Remember, mineral make-up, such as Jane Iredale, is the best kind for clients with problematic skin as it allows the skin to breathe.

Don’t worry about discussing your skin issues with a professional skincare expert, we are here to help and support you, to get your skin in its best possible condition.

Call us on 01283 561208, or pop in for a chat.



The importance of visiting a professional to carry out potentially risky treatments was thrown into the spotlight time and again in 2017. Much to the frustration of beauty therapists and techs, it seemed stories of consumers injuring themselves as a result of DIY treatments were rarely out of the news.

In May, the British Association of Dermatologists (BAD) reported a surge in people suffering from allergic reactions after using home gel-polish and acrylic kits, ranging from sore cuticles to the natural nails lifting from the nail beds.

It wasn’t just consumers at fault though – the adverse reactions were also attributed to techs mixing products and technologies from different brands systems.

Separately, a survey revealed just how often people injure themselves when attempting to remove their own pubic hair, with 14% admitting they had sustained injuries that required medical attention.

Even more seriously, experts began warning consumers against buying skin peels from eBay following reports of people suffering severe facial burns. Campaign group Safety in Beauty received 27 complaints of chemical peels gone wrong from products containing banned ingredients such as trichoroacetic acid.

Don’t take the risk, contact your local qualified Beauty Therapist for advice.




  1. SKIN

Stress can also have a major impact on the skin’s appearance. with certain skin conditions actually directly caused by stress. These include:

Dryness/Dullness. Raised levels of cortisol promotes transepidermal water loss resulting in dry and dull skin appearance.

Fine Lines. Raised cortisol can trigger elevated blood sugar levels via a process known as glycation. Ultimately, glycation damages collagen and elastin, two fibers that help to keep skin smooth, plump and firm. Counteract the effects with vitamin A along with antioxidants to stimulate collagen production and help diminish the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

Acne. Stress triggers the release of androgens (male hormones) like testosterone which are responsible for the production of sebum. Women suffer more than men as they produce a much higher amount of androgens in the adrenal gland than men. Incorporate treatments with salicylic acid and vitamin A to control bacteria, clogged pores and to normalise sebum production.


Your skin is the window to what’s going on in your body internally, so if you’re not sleeping and your system isn’t functioning properly, you’re going to notice a dull complexion, dry, flaky skin and breakouts. Stress causes magnesium deficiency. The benefits of magnesium for anxiety and stress are substantial. When people are low in magnesium, they feel anxious, suffer with muscle cramps and may experience insomnia. Lack of sleep will also have a negative impact on skin health. A recent study found that poor quality sleepers showed increased signs of intrinsic skin ageing including fine lines, uneven pigmentation and reduced elasticity.


Stress can put more demand on the B vitamins in the body.

B vitamins are depleted by stress hormones such as cortisol. which get used up during stress responses such as the tensing of muscles and the rise of blood pressure.

B vitamins are important vitamins as they contribute to normal energy-yielding metabolism and are key for supporting mental health and combating stress. As B vitamins are water soluble they need to be replenished on a regular basis. Good sources of foods rich in B vitamins include cereals and grains, meats, fish, poultry, milk, eggs and vegetables. Supplementing your diet with B vitamins is an effective way to ensure you get enough on a daily basis.


When the body is under stress, cortisol diverts energy away from the gut to muscles and the brain. It works to keep blood sugar elevated by feeding glucose to the brain and retains sodium to keep blood pressure levels up. During this fight-or-flight response, immune system and digestion slows down, this can cause the gut to become vulnerable to infection and inflammation.

Probiotics help supply the gut with beneficial bacteria. These ‘good’ bacteria play key roles in helping to maintain a healthy gut. They assist in digestion and, in fact, produce substances that nourish the lining of the intestines. By supporting digestive health, and addressing these internal imbalances, this may help reduce bloating and improve general well-being. A recent study published in The Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology found that consistent stress negativity affects the amount and diversity of your good gut flora.



Original article: IIAA Bulletin November 2017




One in six people in the workplace are affected by stress, anxiety or depression at any one time in this country, according to the leading UK charity MIND.

The drive to work longer hours is now a reality for many. Work life balance is harder to achieve and the digital economy adds pressure to personal and professional performance. Stress is a natural part of life today and hard to avoid. However, managing stress and recognising the signs are important [the good and the bad news is that your skin will often be a visible indicator of stress).

When stress occurs, the body produces two hormones – adrenaline and cortisol. Adrenaline helps the body to react to perceived ‘danger’ and once that threat is over, will return to normal levels. Cortisol, produced by the adrenal glands, also helps your body cope with stress and is essential for maintaining a healthy immune system, however if allowed to continue at high levels, can have a negative impact all over the body. Signs include thinning skin, weaker bones, higher fluid retention and bloating, a higher risk of bruising easily, delayed wound healing, weight gain and overall hormone imbalance between estrogen, progesterone and testosterone.

Stress causes high levels of cortisol leading to increased inflammation. As prolonged stress causes irregular levels of cortisol, this results in the gut becoming inflamed. Specifically in skin, multiple neuroinflammatory conditions can be triggered or aggravated by stress, such as: psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, acne and contact dermatitis.



Original article: IIAA Bulletin November 2017


Mini Series Vitamin A Myths #4

Mini Series Vitamin A Myths #4

Vitamin A causes skin to become inflamed

If skin receives high levels of vitamin A too quickly, it can experience a transient retinoid reaction. “Ironically, the people most likely to react to vitamin A are the ones who need it most”, says Tracy Tamaris, Director of Education at the International Institute for Anti-Ageing (IIAA). “Clients with sun damage are likely to have far less vitamin A receptors in their skin, which means that they are deficient. The key is to introduce it very gradually so that the skin slowly becomes acclimatised. That’s why the Environ® Step Up programme is unique, it has been designed so clients are introduced to vitamin A in a controlled way to maximise positive benefits and minimise risks of retinoid reaction which is simply the skin’s way of saying ‘ Wait – I’m not ready yet’. Always start on the first level and only progress to the next level once your skin is fully accustomed to it.”

See our Environ Skincare range at http://www.skyebluebeauty.net/Environ-Stockist.htm

AVST Moisturiser 1
Environ Step-Up System Skin Essentia Moisturiser No.1

Adapted from a post in the September 2017 IIAA Bulletin

Mini Series Vitamin A Myths #3

Mini Series Vitamin A Myths #3

Vitamin A is toxic

This is one of the most common myths and often arises from confusion about the Recommended Daily Amounts (RDA) for oral consumption. The RDA is the minimum amount needed to prevent diseases such as rickets and scurvy, NOT the maximum. According to the European Food Safety Authority, the upper tolerable level is 10,000 ius daily, and experts argue that it should be much higher.

Dr Fernandes is a strong advocate of supplementing with vitamin A. “When we apply vitamin A to the skin, only a fraction of it penetrates down to the level of the dermis and even the most sophisticated modern tests have barely been able to detect any vitamin A in the bloodstream even when very high doses are applied”, he says.

“I feel nervous if I don’t apply it every day via my Environ® creams, and feel more assured if I take 40,000 – 50,000 ius of vitamin A daily”, he adds. “It works with our DNA to determine how skin cells behave, how they differentiate into specialist cells and how they mature, not just in our skin but throughout our whole body… It is fundamentally the most important molecule in addressing sun damage and anti-ageing. There is nothing else like it”.

Vitamin Facial
Environ Active Vitamin Facial

Lorraine Perretta, Head of Nutrition at the International Institute for Anti-Ageing (IIAA), agrees that taking vitamin A orally is key. “It’s important to feed the skin internally as well as externally. Unless you eat liver a few times a week, you will find it very hard to get adequate vitamin A levels from your diet, so I’d recommend at least 5000 ius a day.”

Adapted from a post in the September 2017 IIAA Bulletin

Mini Series Vitamin A Myths #1

Mini Series Vitamin A Myths #1

Vitamin A thins the skin

Studies show that vitamin A compacts the stratum corneum and thickens the epidermis, which runs completely contrary to the idea that it has a thinning effect. It influences the genes that cause epidermal stem cells to grow into fully functioning keratinocytes and mature into healthy layers of the epidermis. Vitamin A increases the growth of the basal layer which is why the epidermis becomes thicker and therefore more tolerant to damaging environmental effects.


“You can thicken the epidermis by up to 100 per cent compared to not using vitamin A”
Environ® Founder Dr Des Fernandes

Adapted from a post in the September 2017 IIAA Bulletin