Tag: sun

The Rise of concern Based Skincare


As skincare professionals, we see clients seeking treatments for skin concerns such as Acne, Rosacea, Pigmentation, Dry, Sensitive or Fine Lines/Wrinkles on a daily basis. Research from the British Skin Foundation has found that 60% of British people currently suffer from or have suffered from a skin condition at some point during their lifetime.


When it comes to skincare efficacy, a ‘one size fits all’ approach is no longer enough. Discerning clients armed with more information via the internet, reality programmes and social commentary, want to treat specific skin concerns to benefit from skincare regimes tailored to meet their personal needs


When looking at skin concerns, it appears that overall, both men and women are paying more attention to the ‘what’ and the ‘how to resolve if. A recent study of 92 dermatology clinics found a 200% rise in the number of adults seeking specialist Acne treatment’. Other skin conditions on the

rise include Rosacea and Pigmentation. Rosacea treatment enquiries are up by 92%, double compared to the year before. Hyperpigmentation, caused by the overproduction of Melanin resulting in darker patches on the skin, can not only make skin look uneven but can also give the appearance of aged skin.


What has caused this rise in skin concerns? Note: a few modern day factors that have huge impact


Diets high in sugar, lacking nutrients and full of processed foods can lead to a host of adverse health issues, including heart disease, weight gain and also skin problems. Yet, as a nation, we are consuming more sugar and processed foods than ever before. The World Health Organisation has stated that people should aim to get just 5% of their daily calories from sugary foods. However, the average is 12.3% for adults under 65 according to the national diet and nutrition survey (NONS). Sugar can trigger a spike in blood sugar levels. This increases levels of insulin that can cause skin problems such as acne and rosacea. In fact, an overview of research carried out over the past 50 years has found that eating foods with a high glycaemic index (GI) not only aggravated acne, but in some cases triggered it, too”,


A survey of 4,000 people ‘ found that four out of five adults feel stressed during a typical week, while almost one in ten were stressed all the time. There is now a greater understanding of the link between stress and adverse effects on skin health. For example, stress hormones trigger overproduction of sebum that can create or worsen Acne. Raised levels of stress hormones promote transepidermal water loss resulting in dry and dull skin appearance. While in general. hormonal imbalances can play havoc on the health of skin whether caused by stress or other factors such as PMS, pregnancy, puberty and menopause.


Daily exposure to free radicals, including pollution, UVA/UBA rays can also lead to various skin issues. Air pollution can lead to premature ageing by accelerating wrinkles and age spots, according to emerging scientific research’. Clients reporting sun damage is also very common. Although more than eight out of 10 people are worried about skin cancer, 72% have been sunburnt in the past year”.

UVA rays are particularly dangerous because they don’t cause burning, so there’s no immediate sign that any damage is being done. In fact, the tell-tale pigmentation marks, excessive wrinkles and leathery texture often don’t become apparent until many years later



Personalised and information based skincare is the future. Providing a consultative approach enables client confidence and loyalty through a longer term treatment programme. Therapists should be taking a three pronged approach when treating their clients:

  1. Start with a detailed skin analysis, in order to really understand your client’s skin. Use skin imaging technology and take photos regularly to show progress.
    Discuss and design a personalised treatment programme – the #100DayReset programme is ideal for both new and existing clients. Combine professional treatments with a personalised homecare routine to address the client’s concern.
  2. Treat from within. Skin nourished from the inside looks healthy on the outside. Clients who use appropriate supplements are likely to achieve far superior results.
  3. Use topical treatments that are about efficacy and integrity.
    Topical vitamin treatments that contain vitamin A have shown to make a dramatic difference to skin concerns.

If clients are using the wrong kind of make-up it could undo all the hard work. Encourage the use of non-comedogenic cosmetics to avoid aggravating concerns. Remember, mineral make-up, such as Jane Iredale, is the best kind for clients with problematic skin as it allows the skin to breathe.

Don’t worry about discussing your skin issues with a professional skincare expert, we are here to help and support you, to get your skin in its best possible condition.

Call us on 01283 561208, or pop in for a chat.

The Best Sunscreen Cream is Not the one with the highest SPF factor

The Best Sunscreen Cream is Not the one with the highest SPF factor

SPF – Sun Protection Factor

We all know that sunscreens are caterogised by their SPF rating but you probably have no idea what it actually means??  Or What it tells you about the sunscreen?  Let’s clarify this…

“It is important to remember that the SPF rating largely refers to UVB protection, as the index is based on reddening or sunburn, and is therefore an incomplete and possibly misleading index in terms of cancer prevention in skin.”
Vitamin A Skin Science, Dr Des Fernandes & Dr Ernst Eiselen.

Just remember UVB is for burning and UVA is for ageing… UVB rays are also responsible for the formation of skin cancers and that the effects of even just one sunburn will last a lifetime.

What SPF is best?

We’re taught the higher the SPF the better the sunscreen and the greater protection it will provide our skin…  This often misleads consumers into thinking that they can spend more time being exposed to the sun. But in actual fact, higher SPFs could actually be causing more long term damage to our skin.  Think about it, to make a sunscreen with a higher SPF lets say a 50+, it physically has to contain more chemicals.

“Scientists do not recommend anything stronger than SPF 15 -20 because there is minimal advantage from the higher SPFs, but significantly greater doses of sunscreen chemcials.”
Vitamin A Skin Science, Dr Des Fernandes & Dr Ernst Eiselen.

These chemicals or organic sunscreen agents, are then converted into free radicals once exposed to UV rays, which effectively ‘rusts’ our DNA – changing the structure of our cells and leading to skin ageing and skin cancer.

“A frightening statistic is that skin cancer has risen since high SPF products were introduced. We are not sure why. Do people perhaps stay longer in the sun and incur more damage, or are the protective molecules damaging our skin by generating free radicals?”
Vitamin A skin Science, Dr Des Fernandes & Dr Ernst Eiselen.

The general perception would be, that the level of protection offered between a lower and higher SPF is a large percentage. In actual fact the percentage is very low at about a 5% difference between an SPF 15 and SPF 50. This is really surprising and can be very misleading.

What should you look for in a sunscreen?

For your sunscreen to provide real protection from damaging ultraviolet light it should contain three essential elements… Adequate UVA cover, adequate UVB cover and sufficient antioxidant cover.
But why antioxidants?

“Antioxidants are free radical scavengers that help minimise the damage of UV rays that penetrate the sunscreen and filters”
Vitamin A Skin Science, Dr Des Fernandes & Dr Ernst Eiselen

Antioxidants help to protect our DNA to ensure its integrity.  Using antioxidants in conjunction with sunscreens is a fairly new idea but Dr Des Fernandes has been incorporating them into his sunscreens since 1990.  This way the sunscreen offers a wide range of protection to the skin.  Not only physically protecting it but also repairing any damage that occurs due to UV exposure or the sunscreen ingredients.  His studies are proving that the inclusion of the antioxidants are providing real protection to our DNA against the damage caused by the UV rays.
(If you aren’t able to find a sunscreen that also contains potent antioxidants you can always use a seperate product)
Look for ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide that act as reflectors. Reflectors are agents that reflect or block most UV rays, rather than absorbing the UV rays.  Titanium is a great, safe and very effective alternative for people who suffer reactions from other UV filters (chemicals).  Zinc oxide is another great UV reflector and is beneficial in reducing acne and enhancing collagen formation.

What sunscreen should I buy?

Since the introduction of SPF50+ sunscreens, it can be very difficult to find a sunscreen that is only an SPF 15 or 20. It’s definitely not impossible but you just have to do your research. We are lucky that Environ manufacture RAD SPF15 with its unique formulation that includes antioxidants – it truly is a fantastic product, which we use regularly and can honestly say that it is the best sun cream that we have ever used.

Remember, Dr Des Fernandes recomends using a sunscreen containing both UVA and UVB elements and potent antioxidants.  Use a lower SPF and apply it in an adequate dose to ensure you’re protected… The recommended dosage is 2mg per centimeters squared.  No sunscreen is going to offer complete protection, so be sensible.  Limit your time spent exposed to the sun, cover up your skin, wear a hat and reapply your sunscreen!!!

Daily sunsreen and antioxidant protection can prevent photo ageing (premature ageing) and skin cancers!